Just dyno to the monkey mouth. V5
My slab boulder circuit a couple months ago at Climb Iowa. V4-V4-V2-VB-V3-VB-V1.
Vid sped up a tad to keep you from falling asleep
Hello 12’s! Brad and I both managed our first 12ab redpoint on the same night! This was one of the progressive compeition routes set for the recent national onsight comp at the gym.
We’d been working the route for a couple days, and the planets aligned for the redpoint tonight!
The last month has been spent preparing for Climb Iowa’s top rope redpoint comp, “Flock to the Rock”. Brad and I would be competing in the Advanced Division, both individually, and as a team, and would have 6 hours to redpoint as many routes in the gym as we could. Points were assigned based on difficulty, and you could earn points for the same route twice.
Oh, and did I mention this comp would be in the DARK!? Yes, headlamps only!
This being my first comp, and having been climbing for about 7 months, my expectations were low. Pacing yourself was definitely key. This was a 6-hour endurance fest after all. Some participants went for quantity over quality, climbing as many easier routes as humanly possible. Brad and I went for quality over quantity, climbing the hardest routes we knew we were capable of, and doing them twice, in an order we had worked out ahead of time.
Our strategy paid off!
Individually, Brad placed 2nd, and I placed 4th. But as a team, Brad and I took 1st! Totally unexpected, but I’ll take it!
Climb Iowa offered up a brand new class called “Advanced Movement”. I figured my climbing advancement could benefit from this class, taught by the gym owner, so I signed right up. A lot of the focus was on body positioning, flagging, and precise foot placement.
For the last night of this three-session class, our focus was on on-sighting. We were assigned a new route based on our previously accessed skill level. An 11ab route was thrown my way, and after a couple minutes previewing the route, I jumped on, only to fail at the crux. That was it for my onsight attempt that evening, but I did manage to redpoint the route the following day.
Overall, I feel the class was very beneficial, even though it wasn’t an overnight shortcut to climbing 5.13 😉
Here’s a video of me climbing the route, after I had a couple more goes.
It’s official. The tag says so! After completing the 3-night, 6 hr course, I’m now certified to lead climb/belay at Climb Iowa. Now to get all practiced up before the next outdoor trip.
We’re a month in (technically 5 nights of climbing) and the redpoint of a 10ab went down. On the slab nonetheless.
We all have to start somewhere, and for me, based on the subjective grading used at Climb Iowa, that looks to be in the land of 5.9 to 5.10a. 5.8’s are on-sightable, 5.9’s are redpointable, and 5.10ab’s seem projectable. Climb Iowa groups their grades as “ab” and “cd”, instead of just a,b,c,d, to account for some of the subjectivity in grading routes that are only up for a couple months).
For bouldering… V0’s are still a kick in the pants at the moment.
Now that a basline has been established, let’s see where this goes.
After a couple years of my friend Brad coaxing me every few months to visit the local rock climbing gym, Climb Iowa, with him, I finally decided to commit to a weekly visit and to do this for real. Tuesday will be our night to climb! I have my top-rope belay certification already, so now I just need to learn some skills on the wall!
This blog will be a place to post random climbing stuff as I begin this new adventure. Wish me luck!